Remember how Shelley Long chic-ified those Wilderness Girl getups in Troop Beverly Hills? Although Francisco Costa‘s technique is infinitely more sophisticated, his take on a femmed-up, military-inspired uniform, circa 1940s, was similarly alchemic. The key silhouette is a jacket/skirt pairing: soft, oversized shoulder, nipped or belted waist, modest, knee-grazing skirt. That’s where Costa’s Biggest Seasonal Innovation is found: a thrilling “pleating” technique in which inverted V-shaped strips of wool felt or cervo leather are sewn together to create a shape that undulates, Gehry-like, as one walks. Double-breasted belted jackets and bombers, tricked out with leather sleeves, provided an all-business counterpoint. But get a look at the backs, which are gathered around the waist in a Costian nod to frippery. The palette of mahogany, auburn (a chocolate-tinged orange), slate, gunmetal, khaki, and most directionally, brindle (a coat coloring pattern frequently used to describe horses) underscored the utilitarian sensibility. But these looks are just as friendly in the city as the country. Why wait for Fall proper to unveil one’s new look? Without fail, Costa has a winning idea for every season.